Kafuli Recipe — The Traditional Uttarakhand Spinach & Fenugreek Curry

Kafuli is not well known outside Uttarakhand, but within the state it is everyday food — the kind of dish that appears on the stove several times a week in Pahari households. It is made from locally available greens (primarily spinach and fenugreek, sometimes sarson or bathua), thickened with rice flour, given its characteristic tang by buttermilk, and tempered with the local spice jakhiya (Cleome viscosa seeds) or cumin.

It is not a complex dish. Its character comes from technique — the proper ratio of greens to buttermilk, the slow simmer that develops the tang, and the tempering that gives it its aromatic lift.

What Is Jakhiya?

Jakhiya (Cleome viscosa) is a wild seed native to the Himalayan foothills, used extensively in Uttarakhand and parts of Himachal Pradesh as a tempering spice. It has a pungent, slightly bitter, mustard-like aroma that is distinctive to Pahari cooking. It is different from any common spice and is what gives authentic Kafuli its characteristic smell.

If jakhiya is unavailable, the closest approximation is a mix of mustard seeds and cumin — not the same, but acceptable. Do not substitute garam masala.

Ingredients

Serves 3–4 | Prep: 15 mins | Cook: 30 mins

• 250g fresh spinach (palak), washed
• 100g fresh fenugreek leaves (methi), washed
• 1½ cups thin buttermilk (chaas) — not thick curd
• 2 tbsp rice flour (chawal ka atta)
• 2 tbsp mustard oil
• 1 tsp jakhiya seeds (or ½ tsp mustard + ½ tsp cumin as substitute)
• 2–3 dried red chillies
• ¼ tsp hing (asafoetida)
• 1 tbsp fresh ginger, finely chopped
• 2 green chillies, slit
• Salt to taste

Method

Step 1: Cook the greens

Bring a pot of salted water to boil. Add spinach and fenugreek leaves. Blanch for 3–4 minutes until completely wilted and soft. Drain, reserving the blanching water. Allow to cool slightly, then blend to a smooth paste. Do not discard the blanching water — use it to thin the curry if needed.

Step 2: Prepare the buttermilk mixture

Whisk rice flour into the buttermilk until completely smooth with no lumps. This prevents the flour from clumping when added to the hot curry.

Step 3: Cook the base

In a heavy-bottomed pot, combine the green paste, buttermilk-flour mixture, and salt. Stir well. Place over medium-low heat. Cook, stirring frequently, for 15–20 minutes until the mixture thickens to a consistency slightly thicker than dal. It should coat a spoon. The buttermilk will lose its raw tang and develop a deeper, more mellow sourness.

Step 4: Make the tadka

In a small pan, heat mustard oil to smoking point, then reduce heat. Add jakhiya seeds (or mustard + cumin). Let them splutter for 15–20 seconds. Add dried red chillies. Add hing. Add ginger and green chillies — cook 30 seconds. The tempering should be very fragrant.

Step 5: Combine and serve

Pour the tadka over the kafuli. Stir gently. Taste and adjust salt. Serve immediately with steamed rice (bhaat) or mandua (finger millet) roti — the traditional Pahari accompaniments.

Key Notes

• Buttermilk consistency: use thin chaas, not thick hung curd or yoghurt. The sourness should be present but not sharp. If the buttermilk is too sour, dilute with water.
• Rice flour: the thickener and what gives Kafuli its distinct texture — different from other green curries. Don’t substitute with cornflour or besan.
• Fenugreek leaves: they add a slight bitterness that is characteristic. If unavailable, use all spinach — but the dish will be milder and less complex.
• Slow simmer: Kafuli needs 15–20 minutes of slow cooking to develop its flavour. Rushing it produces a raw, thin result.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is Kafuli?

Kafuli is a traditional green curry from Uttarakhand, made from spinach and fenugreek leaves cooked with buttermilk and thickened with rice flour. It is a staple of Pahari (mountain) cooking and is served with steamed rice or millet roti. It is distinct from palak paneer or any other common Indian spinach dish.

What is jakhiya?

Jakhiya (Cleome viscosa) is a wild seed native to the Himalayan foothills, used as a tempering spice in Uttarakhand cooking. It has a pungent, slightly bitter flavour and gives Pahari dishes their characteristic aroma. It is available in specialty spice stores and online. There is no exact substitute, but a mix of mustard and cumin seeds comes closest.

Can I make Kafuli without fenugreek leaves?

Yes — use all spinach. The result will be milder and slightly less complex, but still a good Kafuli. Some variations also add bathua (lamb’s quarters) or sarson (mustard greens) to the mix.

What is the difference between Kafuli and palak dal?

Kafuli uses no lentils — the thickening comes from rice flour and the body from buttermilk, not dal. The flavour is tangier and more distinctly herbal. It is a thicker, more textured dish than a standard palak curry.