Upma — South India’s Semolina Breakfast, Done Properly

Upma has a reputation problem. Made carelessly, it is a gluey, bland lump of semolina that no one wants to eat. Made properly, it is light, fluffy, and fragrant — each grain separate, the tempering aromatic, the cashews toasted to a deep gold. The difference is almost entirely in two steps: roasting the semolina correctly, and getting the water ratio and timing right.

The Two Things That Matter Most

Roasting: Dry-roast the semolina in a pan before cooking, stirring continuously on medium heat for 4–5 minutes until it smells nutty and turns very lightly golden. This step is not optional. Unroasted semolina produces the gluey texture that gives upma its bad reputation. The roasted semolina can be cooled and stored — make a larger batch and keep it ready.

Water ratio and timing: Use 2½ cups of water per 1 cup of semolina, and the water must be boiling when it goes in. Adding cold or warm water causes uneven absorption and lumps. Once the water is in, stir quickly for the first 30 seconds, then reduce heat, cover, and let it steam undisturbed for 2 minutes. Do not stir repeatedly during cooking — that breaks down the grains and creates paste.

Ingredients (serves 3–4)

• 1 cup fine semolina (rava/sooji), dry-roasted
• 2½ cups water
• 1 tsp Phoran Black Mustard Seeds
• 1 tsp Phoran Cumin Seeds
• 10–12 curry leaves
• 2 green chillies, slit
• 1 medium onion, finely chopped
• 1 inch fresh ginger, finely minced
• 2 tbsp cashews
• ½ tsp Phoran Turmeric Powder
• 2–3 tbsp oil or ghee
• Salt to taste
• Juice of ½ lemon
• Fresh coriander for garnish

Method

1. Roast the semolina. In a dry pan on medium heat, stir the semolina continuously for 4–5 minutes until it smells nutty and looks very lightly golden. Transfer to a bowl and set aside.
2. Boil the water. Bring 2½ cups of water to a full boil in a separate pot. Keep it simmering on low heat while you do the tempering.
3. Make the tempering. Heat oil or ghee in a heavy kadhai on medium heat. Add cashews first — fry until golden, about 1 minute. Remove and set aside. Add mustard seeds to the same oil. When they splutter, add cumin seeds, then curry leaves (stand back — they splutter). Add green chilli and ginger. Stir 20 seconds.
4. Cook the onion. Add chopped onion and a pinch of salt. Sauté on medium heat for 5–6 minutes until soft and translucent — not golden. Add turmeric and stir.
5. Add semolina. Add the roasted semolina to the pan. Stir to coat with the tempering oil for 1 minute.
6. Add boiling water. Pour the boiling water in a steady stream while stirring briskly. The semolina will absorb it rapidly. Stir for 30 seconds, then add salt, reduce heat to low, cover, and cook for 2 minutes.
7. Finish. Uncover, fluff gently with a fork. Add lemon juice and the reserved cashews. Taste and adjust salt. Garnish with fresh coriander. Serve hot.

Variations

• Vegetable upma: Add finely diced carrot, peas, and beans along with the onion. Increase water by ¼ cup.
• Tomato upma: Add 1 chopped tomato after the onion is soft. Let it cook down before adding semolina — gives a slight tang.
• Poha upma: Replace semolina with thick poha (washed and drained) for a lighter version with a similar technique.

Shop the Spices

• Phoran Black Mustard Seeds →
• Phoran Cumin Seeds →
• Phoran Turmeric Powder →